After the boat got a good rinse, we headed out of Isle of Hope and traveled behind Skidaway and Wilmington Islands a bit south and east of Savannah. Both are larger barrier islands filled with marinas, homes and some very long docks which span the tidal marsh.
It was interesting how the fancy yachts shared the same dock as the commercial shrimp boats.
Old Bonaventure Cemetery is right on the Intracoastal, known for its beautiful gardens and graves of famous Savannah residents and Revolutionary War and Civil War heroes. You can see the grave stones in the cemetery from the water.
As we go further north you can see the bridge that spans the Savannah River and the port terminals. As we have visited the city of Savannah many times, we opted to cross the river and enter South Carolina. Traveling north we saw wide tidal marshes with few oak or pine hammocks. We then wound past Daufuskie Island, the first real barrier island in South Carolina. This island is partially developed, with beaches and some plantation ruins, but it is only accessible by ferry. One can rent a golf cart and tour the island. We opted to anchor behind the island for the night and relax.
Day 22 April 23 On to Beaufort. 30nm. Total 647 miles
Had a beautiful sunrise this morning.
Continuing our travels behind Daufuskie Island brought us to its northern most point, Haig Point lighthouse and Bloody Point.
Legend speaks about how the settlers were often raided by Indians from the islands off Savannah and either the British soldiers or the settlers entrapped the Indians and killed the raiding party- thus the name Bloody Point.
Crossing the Calibogue Sound, we headed behind Hilton Head Island. The red and white striped lighthouse at the island’s southern end is one of the few lighthouses built after 1880 in the US. It was built here in 1970.
Hilton Head Island was first settled by the Yemassee Indians, then in 1521 by the Spanish, then the French in 1562, then the Spanish returned but abandoned the area a few years later. The English led by William Hilton landed in 1663. During the Civil War, Hilton Head and surrounding islands were captured early in one of the largest amphibious assaults (12,000 Union Troops) in our history. The Union took control of Fort Walker on Hilton Head and successfully blockaded supplies from entering the Confederacy. Today Hilton Head is a resort community.
Side Note: On our way past Hilton Head, we had lots of dolphin in our wake and rays jumping out of the water and belly flopping. Was fun to watch!
As we cruised past Hilton Head we also passed by Pinckney Island- named for General Pinckney, Revolutionary War Commander, signer of the US Constitution and Presidential candidate in 1804 and 1808 elections. He moved to the island in 1804 and developed a plantation which grew sea cotton and indigo. General Pinckney’s wife is credited with early indigo cultivation and planting, allowing indigo to become commercially successful. Today the island is a wildlife preserve.
As we left the islands of Hilton Head and Pinckney behind, we crossed Port Royal Sound and entered into the Beaufort River. Continuing up the river we passed Parris Island Marine Corp Recruit Depot, better known as the Marine’s boot camp. Parris Island has been a marine training facility since 1891. About 17,000 recruits train here yearly.
The river winds it way up to the city of Beaufort, SC. Beaufort is the second oldest city in South Carolina, settled in 1711 and boasts beautiful antebellum and Victorian homes and gardens. We anchored in Factory Creek off the river, not far from the old city and took the dinghy ashore to walk the city.
Here are a sample of the homes in Beaufort dating from 1750-1860,
Shots of the St Helena Church built in 1724, and the first African African Church (1865).
Beaufort is also known for the Penn School (first school for freed slaves established in 1861), rice, sea cotton and indigo plantations and the Gullah food and culture traditions kept alive to this day.
As we finished our tour of Beaufort, we walked the park waterfront and then came back to the boat for the evening.
